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What gardening topics are appropriate for discussion during the cold months of winter? Are there any subjects worth discussing that fit the short, dry, cold days in this high desert area? While many gardeners would say no to this question, there are always topics that fit these criteria. Pruning of fruit trees is one such topic.
Since we live in a highly respected tree fruit growing area, it is not unusual to see orchardists pruning their fruit trees at this time of year. Even on very cold days you can see someone pruning their trees to get them ready for spring. While those in the commercial business of producing fruit start this early, it does not mean backyard gardeners should follow suit.
Fruit growers have limited time to prune before their trees bud out in the spring. Consequently, they need to start well ahead of spring to get their trees pruned. Some will hire a crew to prune but most do this task themselves due to cost and the lack of people available. As more pressure is applied to restrict and control the immigrants who normally do this task, more growers will have to do this task themselves or forego the needed pruning and lose production and the income necessary to maintain their orchards.
A prospective buyer for an orchard stopped by my office this week to discuss the possibility of making a living on five acres of peaches. He was disappointed when he reviewed the economic data put together by Colorado State University on this subject. The data reveals growers need to have an outside income if they have less than 10 acres of producing peaches. Farming is a risk and not everyone is willing to take the chance of losing their farm and everything else they have been working for by buying a small orchard.
Peach trees have a limited life expectancy and that is greatly affected by pruning, especially winter pruning. Due to the drying of the tissue exposed at the pruning cut and the length of time the Cytospora canker fungi have to invade the tissue before the cut is closed by callus tissue in the spring, the life expectancy of these trees is greatly reduced. Waiting until just before bud break in the spring (or even after bud break) has less of an impact on the tree's survival as dehydration back into the main branches and trunks is reduced, and the wound calluses over quickly helping reduce invasion by disease organisms.
Pruning peaches and other stone fruit trees at this time of year also exposes bark tissue previously protected from the winter sun. Branches now exposed to the southwest sun are highly susceptible to sunscald, a winter problem that cracks the bark. Cytospora canker invades through these cracks and kills the branch. To prevent this from happening, branches exposed to the southwest sun due to winter pruning should be painted with white latex paint. Some orchardists mix paint with water at a 1:1 ratio and apply it with a brush, roller or sprayer. Protecting these exposed areas should be accomplished within a few days of making the pruning cuts. Oil base paint should not be used.
The above discussion does not mean trees can't be pruned during the winter as dead and dying branches are best removed at this time as they are easier for the arborist to locate. This is also a great time to cut back living branches rubbing on the side or roof of your home or that snag you every time you walk past. To prevent dehydration back into the main trunk or branch, leave a three- to six-inch stub. While the stub will dry out, leaving a stub will prevent damage from extending back into the branch or trunk from which the branch was removed. In spring when cold weather is no longer an issue, the stub should be removed.
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Dr. Curtis E. Swift is the area horticulture agent with the CSU Extension. Reach him at Curt.Swift@mesacounty.us, visit WesternSlopeGardening.org, or check out his blog at http://SwiftsGardeningBlog.blogspot.com.
Since we live in a highly respected tree fruit growing area, it is not unusual to see orchardists pruning their fruit trees at this time of year. Even on very cold days you can see someone pruning their trees to get them ready for spring. While those in the commercial business of producing fruit start this early, it does not mean backyard gardeners should follow suit.
Fruit growers have limited time to prune before their trees bud out in the spring. Consequently, they need to start well ahead of spring to get their trees pruned. Some will hire a crew to prune but most do this task themselves due to cost and the lack of people available. As more pressure is applied to restrict and control the immigrants who normally do this task, more growers will have to do this task themselves or forego the needed pruning and lose production and the income necessary to maintain their orchards.
A prospective buyer for an orchard stopped by my office this week to discuss the possibility of making a living on five acres of peaches. He was disappointed when he reviewed the economic data put together by Colorado State University on this subject. The data reveals growers need to have an outside income if they have less than 10 acres of producing peaches. Farming is a risk and not everyone is willing to take the chance of losing their farm and everything else they have been working for by buying a small orchard.
Peach trees have a limited life expectancy and that is greatly affected by pruning, especially winter pruning. Due to the drying of the tissue exposed at the pruning cut and the length of time the Cytospora canker fungi have to invade the tissue before the cut is closed by callus tissue in the spring, the life expectancy of these trees is greatly reduced. Waiting until just before bud break in the spring (or even after bud break) has less of an impact on the tree's survival as dehydration back into the main branches and trunks is reduced, and the wound calluses over quickly helping reduce invasion by disease organisms.
Pruning peaches and other stone fruit trees at this time of year also exposes bark tissue previously protected from the winter sun. Branches now exposed to the southwest sun are highly susceptible to sunscald, a winter problem that cracks the bark. Cytospora canker invades through these cracks and kills the branch. To prevent this from happening, branches exposed to the southwest sun due to winter pruning should be painted with white latex paint. Some orchardists mix paint with water at a 1:1 ratio and apply it with a brush, roller or sprayer. Protecting these exposed areas should be accomplished within a few days of making the pruning cuts. Oil base paint should not be used.
The above discussion does not mean trees can't be pruned during the winter as dead and dying branches are best removed at this time as they are easier for the arborist to locate. This is also a great time to cut back living branches rubbing on the side or roof of your home or that snag you every time you walk past. To prevent dehydration back into the main trunk or branch, leave a three- to six-inch stub. While the stub will dry out, leaving a stub will prevent damage from extending back into the branch or trunk from which the branch was removed. In spring when cold weather is no longer an issue, the stub should be removed.
----------------------------
Dr. Curtis E. Swift is the area horticulture agent with the CSU Extension. Reach him at Curt.Swift@mesacounty.us, visit WesternSlopeGardening.org, or check out his blog at http://SwiftsGardeningBlog.blogspot.com.
